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  • CARTIER LE MUST TANK TRI-GOLD DIAL | 1972 MANUAL MOVEMENT

CARTIER LE MUST TANK TRI-GOLD DIAL | 1972 MANUAL MOVEMENT

$40.76 $52.99
Description Classic Cartier, one of the first of the Company’s Le Must range which was launched in 1972. This Cartier tank watch, produced in small numbers with a Cartier mechanical manual movement, showcases Cartier’s desire to bring a more affordable range of watches to the market place. A rare and important watch for any Cartier collection. Item description: A classic Cartier timepiece, dating from 1972.  This distinctive timepiece features the very pleasing so-called ‘tank’ case design in 18K gold plated over solid silver. The dial with a tri-gold design (yellow gold, then white gold and rose gold centre). The dial marked, Must De Cartier, along with the Cartier logo. The watch fitted with a golden crown featuring the typical blue carbochon stone. The screwed on case-back with full Cartier name and plate / silver details, along with the serial number.  The watch complete with a Cartier signed 17 jewel mechanical manual movement. The watch completed with a beautiful tan coloured crocodile strap, along with a Cartier design golden finished buckle. Included in the sale is a Cartier service wallet in red leather, and a Cartier service instruction booklet. Case size: 23mm x 32mm Condition report: Case in excellent condition with a nice polished finish remaining (free from major scratches or other damage). Dial original. Movement clean and in working condition (no warranty implied). The strap and buckle remaining in excellent condition. Crocodile strap a later replacement. The buckle original Cartier.  The timepiece may have been opened, so it should not be used near moisture or water without being checked by a qualified watchmaker. Background to Cartier: Louis-François Cartier founded Cartier in Paris in 1847 when he took over the workshop of his master. In 1874, Louis-François’ son, Alfred Cartier, took over the company, but it was Alfred’s sons Louis, Pierre and Jacques, who were responsible for establishing the brand name worldwide. In 1904, the Brazilian pioneer aviator, Alberto Santos-Dumont complained to his friend Louis Cartier of the unreliability and impracticality of using pocket watches while flying. Cartier designed a flat wristwatch with a distinctive square bezel. This watch was liked by not only Santos-Dumont but also many other customers. Thus the “Santos” was born. This was Cartier’s first men’s wristwatch. Louis Cartier retained responsibility for the Paris branch, moving to the Rue de la Paix in 1899. It was Louis Cartier that was responsible for some of the company’s most celebrated designs. In 1907, Cartier signed a contract with Edmond Jaeger, who agreed to exclusively supply the movements for Cartier watches. By this time, Cartier had branches in London, New York and St. Petersburg and was quickly becoming one of the most successful watch companies in the world. The Baignoire and Tortue models (both of which are still in production today) were introduced in 1912, followed by the Tank model in 1917. This, designed by Louis Cartier, was inspired from the newly introduced tanks on the Western Front. The Tank Watch has also survived to this day, with over thirty varieties made since. In the early 1920s, Cartier formed a joint company with Edward Jaeger (of Jaeger-LeCoultre) to produce movements solely for Cartier. This company was named the European Watch and Clock company, producing movements to a high quality. Cartier, however, continued to use movements from other makers, such as Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Movado and LeCoultre. It was also during this period that Cartier began adding its own reference numbers to the watches it sold, usually by stamping a four-digit code on the underside of a lug. Jacques Cartier took charge of the London operation and eventually moved to the current address at New Bond Street. Pierre Cartier established the New York City branch in 1909, moving in 1917 to 653 Fifth Avenue, the Neo-Renaissance mansion of Morton Freeman Plant (son of railroad tycoon Henry B. Plant) and designed by architect C.P.H. Gilbert. Cartier acquired the mansion from the Plants in exchange for $100 in cash and a double-stranded natural pearl necklace valued at the time at $1 million. Among the Cartier team was Charles Jacqueau, who joined Louis Cartier in 1909 for the rest of his life, and Jeanne Toussaint, who was Director of Fine Jewellery from 1933. After the death of Pierre Cartier in 1964, Jean-Jacques Cartier (Jacques’s son), Claude Cartier (Louis’s son), and Marionne Claudelle (Pierre’s daughter); both of whom respectively headed the Cartier affiliates in London, New York and Paris; sold the businesses. Today the Cartier brand is renowned the world over for high quality jewellery and related items. Special notes: This watch is one of the earliest known examples of Cartier’s inexpensive range of wristwatches, later to come together under the umbrella name of ‘Le Must’ collection which started in 1972. By the middle 1970s, all Le Must watches were fitted with quartz movements. Provenance: n/a Ordering: [email protected] or telephone: 1694-781354   CARTIER LE MUST TANK TRI-GOLD DIAL | 1972 MANUAL MOVEMENT
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